Ocean Waves (Grade 10)
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A breaker forms when wave length decreases and wave height increases as the wave nears the shore.
Rouge waves form when there is destructive wave interference.
A result of wave refraction is
- wave energy is concentrated on headlands projecting into the water.
- wave energy is concentrated in the recessed areas between headlands
- wave energy is largely dissipated before the wave reach the shore.
- headlands are enlarged as sediment is deposited on the seaward side.
Which of the following lists ocean waves from smallest to largest?
- seiches, chop, capillary waves, swells, tsunamis, tides
- swells, capillary waves, seiches, chop, tides, tsunamis
- capillary waves, chop, swells, seiches, tsunamis, tides
- chop, seiches, swells, capillary waves, tides, tsunamis
In a wave, water molecules
- move in circles that decrease in size with depth
- move toward the shoreline
- move in a vertical motion to the sea floor
- don't move
The majority of wave erosion occurs from
- the daily wave activity
- deep sea currents
- longshore currents
- storm waves
Which of the following does NOT affect wave height in deep water?
- wind speed
- wind duration
Which of the following increases when a wave enters shallow water?
- wave speed
- wave height
- wave length
- wave period
Wave steepness is the ratio of
- wave height to wavelength
- wavelength to speed
- wave speed to wave period
- wave period to height
What is the difference between a wave and a current?